Art, House & Museums on Naoshima Island Japan

In the full blush of cherry blossom – Kyoto, Osaka, Tokyo & Naoshima

Cherry blossom season had just opened, and Japan was in a pink frenzy when BT boarded the Hello Kitty Shinkansen at Kansai airport and whooshed into Kyoto Station. We were heading to a ryokan (traditional Japanese inn) in the nearby mountains, but famished, and − like a waving lucky cat in a restaurant window − ramen beckoned. So, we took a short detour to the tenth floor, punched our noodle selections into a vending machine, and jostled our way past salarymen to our first taste of Japan. Delicious! Stomachs satisfied, we continued on our way to Arashiyama.

We weren’t quite sure what to expect, but as we floated down the river on the cedar boat, watching the mist play over the mountains, we could tell we were headed somewhere special. The team from Hoshinoya Kyoto greeted us on the dock with deep bows before escorting us along a stone path through manicured gardens to our accommodation. Our rooms were as we’d hoped: stylishly minimalist and decorated in the understated elegance of the Japanese aesthetic but somehow better. Authentic. The ryokan’s calmness instantly centred us.

Dinner was a multi-course kaiseki of strikingly presented seasonal delights, a feast for our eyes and stomachs. Back in the room, it was time for a soak in the wooden bath to let the last stresses float away in kumquat-scented steam. It was hard to believe we’d only landed that morning — ‘real’ life already seemed so distant. Totally relaxed, we hit our futons.

The next morning, we enjoyed an idyllic breakfast — sitting on tatami mats gazing at the cherry blossoms, listening to the faint murmurings of the river and the gongs of the nearby temple. It was as if we’d been transported to another world — and that was the charm of this special place. But it was time to leave the peaceful mountains behind and return to elegant Kyoto.

We were excited to see Kyoto in full blush of cherry blossom. Could she really be as beautiful as the pictures show? She’s always gorgeous, but with masses of shimmering blossoms added to her centuries-old wooden houses, temples, and gardens, she was even more captivating. But to fully grasp the impact these flowers have is something you have to experience for yourself. It transcends mere words. Knowing our days would be filled to the brim with Japanese culture and tradition here; BT opted for a stark contrast in accommodation styles. But we wanted something that would connect with Kyoto at this moment in time, so selected Fauchon Kyoto with its heady mix of French ultra-modern and hot pink decor. It seemed a perfect match. Cherry macaron, anyone?

Bidding sayonara to Japan’s old capital, we set off for Naoshima: a picturesque fishing island in the Seto Inland Sea equally renowned for its natural beauty and exquisite art instalments — including Yayoi Kusama’s giant yellow polka-dotted pumpkin sculpture. It’s hard to capture the magic of this place or pinpoint the best part. The views? The art? The architecture? It’s all so good. We were after the complete immersive experience, so we stayed at Benesse House. Designed by acclaimed Japanese architect Tadao Ando, it’s part art museum, part boutique hotel and fully gorgeous. Overnighting here meant we were free to wander the exhibitions after the crowds had gone home. Every moment on this island was filled with treasures of discovery. Getting to Naoshima from Osaka takes about 3 hours and requires some effort (bullet train + local train + ferry + bus), so BT recommends a minimum two-night stay.

Having eased ourselves into the land of the rising sun — it was time to up the pace and embrace the frenetic energy of Japan’s third-biggest city. While Tokyo is bigger, flashier, more in-your-face, Osaka is every bit as vibrant as her big sister but more laid back. She’s friendly and fun. Osaka is to Tokyo what Melbourne is to Sydney. Her appeal may not be as immediately obvious, but it’s rich and deep.

Design hotel ZENTIS, Osaka

Here we stayed at the design hotel ZENTIS Osaka, (pictured above). It struck just the right note for this city: a harmonious balance between relaxed comfort and coolness. 

Even in food-obsessed Japan, Osaka’s cuisine stands out, and it’s often referred to as the nation’s kitchen. So, for the purpose of travel research, we sampled the delights from one end of Dotonbori to the other. Bellies full but not ready to call it a night, we escaped the crowds by slipping down a side street into one of the many tiny whiskey bars. Okay, maybe it was two. 

We’d deliberately left the biggest and brightest till last, and it was now time to brace for impact. The vibe in Tokyo is one of fabulous madness and style, and our hotel Kimpton Shinjuku nailed the brief. As we checked in, we admired the glamorous fashionista in the lobby with her two equally well-dressed companions. No one seemed to bat an eyelid that they were poodles — complete with their own matching luggage! Here, pet-friendly policies only increase your street cred. 

To avoid burning out too quickly, we began our foray into this exciting city with a calming walk in Yoyogi Park. Then, we abandoned all caution and threw ourselves like crowd surfers into the youthful liveliness of Harajuku and Shibuya. Walking down Cat Street, the coolest street in Tokyo, we couldn’t help but wonder if the poodles shopped here too. When we returned home that evening, we were buzzing with excitement — possibly over-stimulated — so the hotel’s complementary social hour was most welcome. It gave us a chance to process our day and mingle with the other guests, human and canine, and was a great way to unwind before heading back out into the neon lights for dinner. 

This trip contained so many highlights it was hard to single out a favourite, but there was one stand-out star. The food. From the cozy dinner at Moshimoya in Kyoto, where the whole restaurant joined in the laughter and good spirits as if all part of the same big family, to the amazing experience at Shoto Lamp, the 12-seat izakaya in Shibuya, where there’s no menu. Chef Nobu prefers to chat with his guests before deciding what to serve them. As we watched, enthralled from the other side of the wooden bench, he created one meticulous dish after another. We were swept away by his enthusiasm. 

If you’re worried that Japan might be tricky to navigate without a guide, do not fear. Getting from A to B is simple. The train systems — from the high-speed shinkansen to local trains or subways — are easy to handle and run like clockwork. And as we discovered, if you have a problem, there’s no shortage of officials or kind locals willing to go out of their way to help you. Take, for example, the supremely obliging station attendant at Himeji. When we discovered the lockers where we’d hoped to stow our suitcases were full, he escorted us from one end of the busy station to the other, only leaving when our luggage was safely stored away. The taxi service was also exemplary: highly regulated, metered and reasonably priced. Whenever the automatic doors swung open, we were greeted by an immaculately presented driver, complete with suit and tie and white gloves. 

Japan has so many wonders to discover: history, culture, art, beauty, nature, cuisine, people … BT can’t get enough of it. We’re already dreaming about our next visit.

The Fine Print

Sleep at Hoshinoya Kyoto Arashiyama, Fauchon Kyoto, Benesse House Naoshima, ZENTIS Osaka, Kimpton Shinjuku Tokyo.

Eat at Moshimoya in Kyoto, Shoto Lamp, Tokyo.

During Cherry Blossum, walk the Philosophers Walk, Kyoto, picnic in Yoyogi Park.

Elise Wackett, Travel Writer