A Lightning Bolt to the Senses – Peru and Argentina

A Lightning Bolt to the Senses – Peru and Argentina

Travelling in Peru is a bit like taking a lightning bolt to the senses, over and over. From the dark thrills of the Amazon rainforest to the breathtaking views of the Andes and the mysteries of ancient Inca life in Machu Picchu, our neurons were firing all the way across this spectacular country. And it wasn’t just our eyes and imaginations that were awestruck; our taste buds got to sample some of the most exciting food on the planet as well. 

You might think you’ll have to rough it Indiana Jones-style on a trip to Peru, but these days it’s possible to channel your inner adventurer in stunning luxury. Even so, let’s be clear – Peru is not easy, even in luxury. There are some monumental geographical features to traverse, so travel times are long. And the journeys – even with every amenity – can be arduous. You’ll definitely need to pack travel sickness tablets for the steep and windy roads. But, once there, you’ll be rewarded with some of the most breathtaking views you can imagine. Of course, the altitude is literally breathtaking too. The oxygen tanks you see dotted around hotel lobbies aren’t there for decoration! But, hey, as they say, nothing worth having comes easy and what Peru has to offer is really worth it!

Confession time: we like our comforts when travelling. And Peru’s accommodation offers do not disappoint. Of the many gorgeous hotels we stayed in, BT’s favourite was Sol y Luna. Burrowed deep in the Andes in the Sacred Valley, this hotel is special. It’s not just another luxury hotel plonked into sublime surroundings. Somehow, Sol y Luna has tapped into the magic of its environment so perfectly that it’s achieved a rare state of being so completely in sync with the natural aesthetics that you can almost hear the ancient secrets of the Inca being whispered in the breeze. We felt like stepping off the world and staying here for a week Ö at least. 

Villa Barranco, Lima, Peru

Now, if you’re as serious about your food as BT is, then you need to add a trip to Lima to your bucket list. The food scene there is electrifying. Currently, it has loads of restaurants high up on world best lists, and no wonder! With such rich terrain – from the Pacific coast to the Andes and the jungles – the extraordinary biodiversity means Peru yields a mind-blowing array of produce. Just imagine what you could do with 2500 different types of potatoes! Of the many great meals sampled (including guinea pig gyoza in Cuzco), our favourite was at Mérito in Barranco, Lima. You know you’re onto something good when chefs flock there on their days off.

Having sampled enough pisco sours in Peru, it was time for a change of drinks. So, in the name of research, we put on our fedoras and headed to Mendoza in Argentina’s famous red wine region. Here we stayed at the glorious Entre Cielos Wine and Wellness Hotel and wiled away the hours soaking up the view – among other things – across the vast plains to the snowcapped Andes, sometimes even spotting a lone Andean fox skulking through the vines. Most of the best accommodation, wineries and restaurants are out of town but easily accessible by Uber or e-bikes. The long afternoon spent at Kaiken Winery and Restaurante Ramos Generales was the highlight of our time in Mendoza. Could there be a better way to spend a day than lingering over lunch, soaking up the winter sun in ponchos, and watching chefs put on a fiery show working their magic with Argentina’s famous beef? 

Dining at Kaiken Wines, Mendoza, Argentina

But Argentina isn’t all barbecues and cowboys, and you’ll realise this the minute you arrive in Buenos Aires. With its beautiful wide boulevards and neo-classical buildings, no wonder it’s known as the Paris of South America. This grand city still retains gorgeous French bone structure, but some of her beauty has faded – this poor old girl has seen better days economically. However, that means the Aussie dollar goes a long way here. While the city might seem like it’s clinging a bit to its ritzy past, it isn’t staid or old-fashioned. It’s one cool destination, and the porteños (“people of the port”) really know how to party. Consequently, not much happens here before 2 pm. But if you want to hit a friendly bar with the locals or tango late into the night, then Buenos Aires is your town! BT stayed in the Palermo Hollywood area which has a decidedly bohemian vibe. Melburnians might find it a bit like Fitzroy – with its coffee-sipping hipsters, street art and bars. 

From the pulsing beat of Buenos Aires, we headed for a different sort of thundering noise at the Iguazu Falls. After so many wow moments on this trip, we were half expecting the Falls to not live up to the hype. But turns out, they are that good! They are the biggest, widest, most dramatic, booming series of waterfalls you can imagine. With 275 in total, you can choose your level of exposure: damp, wet or drenched. BT stayed at the Miramar, the only hotel within Argentina’s Iguazu National Park, and the view was worth every cent. From the hotel, you can soak up the magic of the Falls, a shroud of misty fog adding an appropriate veil to the show. If you can tear your eyes away from the view, this is also a good place to get up close with some local fauna. The water brings flocks of birds, including toucans, vultures and owls. Raccoon-like coatis and marauding gangs of howler monkeys roam the park also. The first thing you are warned about on check-in is the naughty monkeys and how they will open your balcony doors to raid your mini bar. We witnessed more than one gangster primate cracking open cans of liquid refreshments after successful B & Es. Luckily, they weren’t on our tab!

A snapshot of the gems you can discover on an adventure in Peru and Argentina by travel writer Elise Wackett.

THE FINE PRINT

Lima stay at the Villa Barranco by Ananay Hotels, www.villabarranco.com, Eat at Mérito, www.merito.mesa247.pe

Urubamba stay at the Sol y Luna, www.hotelsolyluna.com

Cuzco eat at Cicciolina (this fabulous restaurant does picnic boxes too), www.cicciolinacuzco.com

Mendoza stay at the Entre Cielos Wine and Wellness Hotel, www.entrecielos.com Eat at Kaiken Winery and Restaurante Ramos Generales, www.kaikenwines.com

Buenos Aires stay at the Home Hotel, homebuenosaires.com, visit the San Telmo Market (food); Mercado de las Pulgas (flea market), Eat at Vive Café (small café/great coffee); Mengano (contemporary food).

Elise Wackett, Travel Writer